Texas is known for its wide open spaces but unfortunately for overlanders and those looking for dispersed camping off-road, a considerable part of the land in the Lone Star state is privately held. Despite this, there are some great places in Texas to go overland camping, if you know where to look. From our current home base in Austin we have several choices if we want to head out for some dispersed, off-road camping adventure in Texas.
Since Texas is over 800 miles across at its widest point, (from the Panhandle to the Rio Grande Valley) there can be vast differences in weather from one area to another. For this reason it’s important to plan ahead during any season and keep a close eye on the weather forecast. If one part of the state is too hot or rainy, you may find another area where the weather is totally opposite.
There are several private off-roading parks in Texas but we generally like to camp on state and national park land, since some of the private areas can get quite crowded and aren’t designed so much for peaceful camping as they are for four-wheeling.
The following are some of our favorite spots in Texas for off-road, overland camping. There are some other areas to consider, but these are our favorites.
Overland Camping in Big Bend Ranch State Park
Big Bend Ranch State Park is a 311,000 acre park in west Texas that was carved out of several sprawling ranches that were donated to, or purchased by the state. Situated along the Rio Grande river on one side and bordered by the Cienega Mountains to the north, this sprawling desert wilderness has lots of room to explore by four-wheel drive vehicle. There are a several remote campsites that can only be accessed by four wheel drive or high clearance vehicles, including Las Burras sites 1-3 (see video below), La Mota sites 1-2, Tres Papalotes in the lower part of the park and Papalote de la Sierra in the northern Cienega section.
Things to Do at Big Bend Ranch State Park
There are 238 miles of hiking trails in BBRSP to explore, paddling opportunities on the Rio Grande, stargazing, (the park is an International Dark Sky site), as well as simply kicking back and relaxing in camp and taking in the wonderful smell of the desert while watching for wildlife. (We usually bring along a couple 4K trail cameras to set up near camp, just to see who comes by. So far we’ve captured images of coyotes, mule deer, bobcat and a surprising number of wild longhorn cows.) Big Bend Ranch State park is also a working ranch and home to the state herd of longhorns.
Be Prepared Before Camping Off-Road in Big Bend Ranch State Park
The off-road conditions in Big Bend Ranch State Park include sharp thorns, jagged rocks, washed-out creek crossings, large rocks and thorny brush encroaching on the trail. There are approximately 100 miles of unmaintained 4×4 trails in BBRSP to explore, most of them leading to dispersed, primitive camping sites. It’s recommended that vehicles travel in pairs and that off-road vehicles carry at least two spare tires, along with extra water, food and gas. The nearest gas stations to the park are in Presidio to the west and at Lajitas on the eastern side. It’s a good idea to top off your tank before traveling onward to the park.
Trails in BBRSP are especially rough and can rattle loose things like two-way radio antennas and other gear you may have mounted on the outside of your overland rig. Be sure to check everything for tightness before and after a day on the trail.
Desert Solitude
We love off-road camping in Big Bend Ranch State Park in the early spring and fall when the weather isn’t so hot. Camping out there feels a bit like some places we’ve visited in southern Arizona but without having to drive as far from home. If you do plan on visiting the park and traveling on the 4×4 trails just be aware that your vehicle will most likely leave with some scratches on it.
Most all of the trails have brush and yuccas growing along the sides and some of them are quite narrow. Both bear and mountain lions roam the area, so be sure to follow normal precautions when hiking and storing food. You can learn more by stopping in at the Barton Warnock Visitors Center and at the Big Bend Ranch State Park website.
On your way home, if you want to add some more gravel road to your overlanding adventure, consider taking the long and lightly traveled Casa Piedra road up to FM-169, heading toward Marfa. North of Casa Piedra, where the gravel ends and FM-169 begins, you’ll come to the ruins of an old adobe homestead, which the state has built a protective cover over. This is all that remains of Alamito, a settlement that was started in the 1850’s along the Chihuahua Trail, a freight route from San Antonio to Chihuahua, Mexico .
Camping Off-Road in Texas at Big Bend National Park
About an hour’s drive east of BBRSP lies the vast expanse of Big Bend National Park, covering 801,163 acres or 1,252 square miles.
Big Bend National Park is unique because it includes several distinct climate zones in one park. Called “sky islands” the Chisos Mountains rise several thousand feet above the Chihuahuan desert below, creating an ecosystem with cooler temperatures and more moisture than the arid country below.
One of our favorite routes for dispersed, off-road camping in Big Bend National Park is to drive the River Road trail. We like to start this trail early in the morning on the east side, departing from Rio Grande Village road, so we travel with the rising sun behind us and stop about halfway at a primitive campsite. There’s a nice campsite with expansive desert views just off the River Road at Fresno, about 18.6 miles from the pavement as you’re heading west. Near the Fresno campsite are the ruins of the old Mariscal mine, which make nice photo at sunset.
The River Road is 51 miles long and the western side is often rougher since it sees less traffic. There are several creek crossings which can flood during rare rainy periods, as well as some long flat stretches that can hold standing water and become boggy.
There are some other nice four-wheel drives to explore in Big Bend National Park, including the 16 mile Black Gap road and 26 mile long Old Ore road. Check with the park headquarters at 432-477-2251 for more information such as trail closures and back-country camping permits. Be aware that any off-road driving is prohibited in Big Bend National Park, so be sure to stay on designated trails.
Advisory For Off-Road Campers on the River Road in Big Bend National Park
The park borders Mexico on the Rio Grande side and while the remoteness of this area, along with the fact that the area on the Mexican side is also a national park, has kept this area relatively safe compared to other border areas it’s still best exercise some caution. We’ve been approached a couple times by Mexican citizens who’ve crossed the border, offering to sell us handcrafted items, but not once have we ever felt threatened by anyone. In this remote land it’s easy to think you’re all alone, so use common sense, be aware of your surroundings and lock your vehicle if you go off hiking.
Overland Camping on North and South Padre Island
Our second favorite place to go overlanding in Texas is North or South Padre Island. The one closest to our home is Padre Island National Seashore, where those with four-wheel drive vehicles can travel sixty miles down the beach to the Mansfield Cut, which divides North Padre Island from South Padre Island. This 120 mile in and out drive is well worth it if you want to get away from the crowds.
Typically, the farther down the beach you drive at Padre Island National Seashore the fewer campers there are. Depending on the time of year, you may have miles of beach all to yourself, especially the farther you drive down the island toward Mansfield Cut.
Things to do at Padre Island National Seashore include beach-combing, surf-fishing, bird-watching, stargazing or simply hanging out with your toes in the sand and listening to the sound of the surf. Campfires are permitted, which is a nice thing to relax beside in the evening.
Cautions For Off-road Camping at Padre Island National Seashore
If you decide to drive down the beach beyond the well-traveled areas where sand has been packed by traffic, you’ll find areas of deep, rutted sand in some places where you’ll need to switch to four-wheel drive. Signs indicating “four-wheel-drive vehicles only” advise visitors when entering this part of the beach. Be sure to take along a set of traction boards, a shovel, extra gas, along with enough food and water if you get stranded. Cell phones quit working about 10 miles down the “four-wheel drive only” section. Depending on your cellular provider, you may get service again as you near the Mansfield Cut.
Camping along the four-wheel drive area of South Padre Island is very much like it is on North Padre, except this area is not part of the Padre Island National Seashore. We also like to go overland camping on South Padre and find that sometimes the water down there is a bit clearer than it is up north.
Be Aware of These When Beach Camping In Texas
- The beach is considered a roadway, with a 15 mile speed limit.
- You must pay a fee to drive on both North Padre and South Padre Island.
- Camp away from the beach and avoid disturbing the dunes – which are protected.
- Never drive between any vehicle that you see parked next to the beach. Shark anglers often have lines out!
- There is no shade – bring a sun shelter, hat, sunscreen.
- Mosquitoes can be a real problem here. See our post How to Keep Mosquitoes Away From Your Campsite
- Watch out for jellyfish in the water and on the beach.
- Weekends can be crowded, especially in summer. You may have to drive farther if you want privacy.
- Pack out what you bring in. (There’s lots of beached flostam and we try to pack out more than we bring in.)
- Watch out for nesting endangered sea turtles and give them a wide berth.
Another public area in Texas where you can go off-road, primitive camping in a four-wheel drive only area is at Lake Meredith National Recreation Area in the Texas Panhandle region. We’re heading up that way this fall to check it out and we’ll post some more information about it here. There other great areas in Texas for overlanding off-road camping besides these three, including Hill Country overland routes which we hope to bring you more info on in our next posts.
