Our last real road trip was just over a year ago, when the pandemic was only in its infancy in this country. Leaving Austin behind, we headed to Llano River State park, where we camped for the night before continuing on to Presidio, Texas, a small town in far West Texas that lies just the other side of the border from Ojinaga, Mexico.
Getting There
From Presidio, we followed the contours of lonely Farm-to-Market road 170 for nearly an hour as it wound along the Rio Grande River, on past the old ghost town of Ruidosa, then up a heavily wash-boarded gravel road for a bone jarring ride to the springs.
We saw only two vehicles – both border patrol trucks – on the entire section onward from Presidio. At one point we had to shoo a few sleepy cows out of the way before we could pass- a testament to just how isolated this part of Texas really is. Off the left of the road, over on the Mexico side, we could see the towering mountains of the Sierra Madre Occidental in the distance, beckoning in their beauty, yet belying the dangers that the lawless region holds for travelers.
We Finally Arrive at the Oasis
Just after noon, we arrived at the main office and checked in with the friendly caretakers who showed us to our room at Chinati Hot Springs. We’d chosen one of the stand-alone adobe cabins, the “El Presidente”, which features a long sunken tub which can be filled with piping hot spring water whenever desired.
The dogs were eager to stretch their legs after seven hours of riding in the truck, and Melissa took them for a nice stroll up the dry creek bed while I unloaded our gear.
What We Liked About Chinati Hot Springs
If you appreciate a low-key, chill travel experience, want to get away from it all, and enjoy the rugged beauty of unspoiled nature, then this is the right place for you. The accommodations at Chinati Hot Springs are simple, but clean, and have all the basic amenities an undemanding traveler could ask for. The hot springs consist of several man-made soaking pools which are filled with hot geothermal water and pumped from a well beside the creek shown in the photo above.
The same hot water is fed to a swimming pool (seen in the night photo below). Unfortunately, when we arrived early in the spring of 2020 it was still fairly cold, despite the infusion of warm water. During the daytime, a few young kids were braving the pool, but it was still far too cold for us. I can imagine floating in the pool on a hot desert evening, watching as the sun sets across the mountains, so we’re planning for our return in the summer months.
Things to Do at Chinati Hot Springs
There’s the potential for spectacular night photography at Chinati Hot Springs, as this part of Texas has some of the darkest night skies in North America. Unfortunately for us, a late season cold front rolled in and we only had one night of exceptionally clear skies.
We really enjoyed taking long, meandering walks in the desert surrounding the springs. Do be careful to read the signs to avoid crossing into the private property that borders the resort. This part of the world still feels wild and you might literally stumble over a piece of history while out walking, as we did when we found an old wagon axle that must have been more than a hundred years old. We left it lying where we had found it, so that the next wanderer could also enjoy the discovery.
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Some Tips For Pet Owners
When we visited Chinati Hot Springs in 2020, well-behaved dogs were welcome for a small fee; however, you should check with the owners first when making a reservation.
This part of the world can get HOT, even in springtime and fall. Be sure to keep your pets hydrated and avoid having them drink from the creek as the water may contain bacteria or parasites. Veterinarians are far and few between if your pet becomes ill or injured so be extra cautious of hazards and listen and watch out for snakes.
Caring For The Humans
As for the humans, keeping hydrated is job one, along with making sure that you apply sunscreen and wear a hat and even a light long-sleeved shirt while out walking in the desert. Some of the best times to visit are in spring and fall, as summertime desert heat may become oppressive for the uninitiated traveler.
Plan to be “off grid” at the Springs as there are no phones, TV or internet, which we considered a huge bonus, as the lack of connectivity makes it the perfect hideaway from the hustle of the city.
